Day 5 - Lac de Bouzey to Pairis

Another low-tech post again tonight. The guys would like to thank everyone who has looked at the blog, and those who have commented. They would like you to know that the did manage to get a Wifi link for a little while last night, and tried to send a comment themselves, but the link wasn't good enough and it didn't go through. Here's the update that they gave me.

We got away late this morning because everything was so wet that it took us a while to get packed up, so we didn't leave until around 10am. We first went into Epinal to find a mobile phone charger for John, as his had packed up. Having succeeded in our first aim, we then left Epinal, following the Moselle River along a very pleasant route - a nice, quiet and picturesque road that followed the river bank, made even better as we were cycling in the sun for the first time in a while.

We crossed the river to little town called Arthes which is where we'd been told about the bike shop that could supply a replacement for Jeremy's broken gear changer. When we eventually found the shop, it turned out to be an amazingly large and well-stocked temple to expensive touring bikes with lots of lovely Campagnolo kit. To give you an idea of the prices, John found a magnesium handlebar stem for 210 Euros!! They had the spare part that Jeremy needed, but it took us a while to explain to the shopkeeper that Jeremy could fit it himself. He's been able to get just the single lever he needs from a used set and managed to get if for half the price of a new one, so he's quite pleased.

We then headed south into in a strong headwind, again following the Moselle. When we drew level with  Remiremont on the opposite bank, our path turned away from the river and we started heading east up a valley to our first col. This was Col de Haut, a 799m pass, but we were a little disappointed that it didn't have an official name and height sign. We were a lot disappointed by the rain, and even more so by the driver of a car coming towards us that was overtaking and didn't bother to pull back on to his own side of the road as he roared passed us rather too close for comfort. Still - first nasty driver really, so we're doing ok. Another feature of the route was that it went through various places where granite was being worked. One town called Le Syndicate called itself "Le Ville de Granite", so it's obviously a big industry here.

Next stop was a town that's an outdoor activity centre for the Vosges, called Gerardmer. It's picturesque, with a lake and lots of posh shops. It was getting colder so it was a good chance for a hot drink and to get stocked up on food. We then headed out of town, up a long climb through conifer forests to the next col. Where we could see through the trees, there were nice views over to a string of lakes. We stopped briefly at a view point - Roche du Diable - rock of the Devil - Jeremy says it's mostly granite, and of course we believe him, since he's the trip geologist!

 Roche du Diable

Then our first proper col - Col de la Schlucht - 1139m - with a proper sign to pose next to, just like we like them.

First "proper" Col.

After that we followed the Route de Cretes -  which runs along the top of a high ridge up to 1228m and has stunning views which particularly impressed Roy, but the weather turned wet and cold, although the view meant we could see tantalising patches of sun in the distance.

Eventually dropped down towards our goal for the night - Orby. It was a spectacular descent, which we all enjoyed a lot. We didn't quite make Orby - it was getting late because of the late start and the shopping trips (and not because of our taxi turning up late, despite what John said!), so when we passed a nice looking campsite we decided to just go in.

So we're in Pairis, and because we were so wet and mucky, we have rented a small chalet. We have manage to get dry and warm but it does smell of "well exercised" men... There's a pair of bunks and a double bed, which Roy got it as the oldest! John was basically tired enough to sleep anywhere and Jeremy felt the same, so there wasn't much of a fight over it. It's definitely a Campsite with Character. It's run by moderately ancient lady who offered to feed us sausage and chips, but was unfazed by having 2 veggies in the party and responded with a nice big heap of pasta and a tomato salad, which we ate in front of a roaring wood burning stove, trying to take as long as possible to finish it. We're currently trying to dry washing - we did lots.

Our Chalet next morning

We're looking forward to more beautiful views over the Vosges tomorrow, when the weather promises to be a little better, and we're hoping to get away early to make up for the shorter distance today.

Vital Statistics
102.37km covered, 1425m climbed, 5hours 22mins in the saddle, Average speed 19kph, 5133 calories used,